Adventures In Mazatlán

I shake my head thinking it’s already been four years, but Microsoft Outlook reminded me the other day that it was time to convert my temporary residency over to permanent status!

The process was the same, and different. First I went to the INM website to see what I’d need to bring with me. I copied my passport and my temporary residency card. Then I filled out the online form and printed it. I also printed a copy of my RFC and my CURP – just in case. I know each office wants slightly different things and I was going to be prepared! Oh, and I went to the bank and took out the maximum daily withdrawal of pesos from the ATM so I could do it again the next day and have enough to pay the INM fees.

Tuesday morning I set out around 8:30 am. Immigration offices open at 9:00 am, so I thought this would be enough time to stop at Hogla’s (yes, it’s Hogla, at least that’s what her sign says) tienda where she gets paperwork ready for you for just $500 pesos. I’ve tried doing things without Hogla’s help, and INM always makes me go to her, even though my paperwork is complete. I have no further comments on that. But this time she was BUSY! There were five or six people ahead of me, and that meant that I didn’t get to the INM office until 11:15 am. I was number 20 – things were not looking good for getting things done in one day!

The INM offices have been updated! Wow! New windows! New paint inside! Screens that drop from the ceiling so they have a nice background – because THEY take your picture now, they don’t have you bring them! And … wait for it … they accept debit/credit cards!!!! No more bank runs in the middle of the process! They have also hired more staff – there were two additional people assisting us (never more than two employees at a time, but there was a gentleman who worked until the woman who’s been there ever since I’ve been going there came in to take over).

At 4:15 pm my number was called! Wooo!! Went to the window. Gave them my packet of paperwork prepared by Hogla, along with my passport and temporary residency card; and then paid my fees (currently $1,632.00 processing fee and $6,226.00 for the residency). They told me to have a seat and they’d call me back up. Waited 30 minutes then signed some papers, and they gave me a piece of paper with some information on it. They said that their cameras weren’t working and to come back on Friday. They’d told a few people before me to come back on Thursday – so I figured they told me Friday to spread things out. It was 4:45 pm when I walked out the door. No coffee or food all day – so I Whatsapp’d an order for Chinese food and picked it up on the way home!

Friday. 8:15 am. One of the couples that was there on Tuesday were waiting at the door. They’d been told Thursday. This was the Thursday that Ovidio Guzmán was captured in Culiacán. INM had ushered everyone out of the office and closed up shop because of the gang violence in the state of Sinaloa. So, Friday I was number two.

Around 10:30 am they started calling numbers. When they called me I handed them the page with info they’d given me on Tuesday. Almost 11:00 am they called me back up. Took three photos – one from the front, and one from each side. Then they took my fingerprints. Right hand 4 fingers, left hand 4 fingers, and both thumbs. At 11:10 am they gave me my permanent residency card and asked me to verify everything was correct! It was, and I was out the door at 11:15 am – hopefully never to return again!!!

I’m going to say that this was so much easier than the last time when I renewed for three years; and immensely easier than the initial visit to get my temporary residency card. Just the ability to pay at the office saves so much time – not to mention that they print the cards right there now and you don’t have to wait the 6 to 8 weeks I did previously.

One final note … when I was there on Tuesday a gentleman came in and went up to the windows. It was evident he’d been there previously and was trying to get residency. The clerk was telling him he needed to bring in his FMM and he kept yelling at them that they hadn’t given him one at the airport. Then the clerk would say ‘online’, and he’d yell at them again that they didn’t give him one at the airport. First, NEVER yell at the person who has this much control over your life. NEVER do it to anyone who is just there to help you – but especially not if they can deport your ass. Second, she was trying to tell him that he could print it online, but he wasn’t listening. Yes, there are no more printed FMM’s at most of the airports in México. That doesn’t mean the information isn’t in their computer system for you to print. It is. Here is a link to a Youtube video that will tell you how to print yours if you need to. And you WILL need to if you are applying for residency: https://youtu.be/w6YOjYj8W0Q .

I am usually up North during the winter months, so being here now is a little disconcerting! I am definitely enjoying the 80 f. weather instead of the snow, wind, drizzle, and grey that I get during Winter in Seattle! And it’s cool enough to wear jeans instead of shorts – which is another nice change.

Other than the weather, there have been a couple of discoveries. Something in my head said that it was time, after these few years of living here, to finish getting furniture for my apartment. Had a couch, a bed, a computer desk (recent addition), a wardrobe from the previous owner that raid resistant termites really liked, and a couple of end tables. Oh, and some very wobbly stools for the kitchen nook that could be leaned on, but not sat on.

I’ve been playing with getting Amazon deliveries. First to the local DHL office near the Jumapam office. That worked really well and got a few steps in towards my 10,000. Then I decided to see if the delivery people would read the special delivery instructions you can add … so I left a little message saying ‘call my cellphone so I can come open the door at the street’ (remember, I have an interior apartment).

It worked! Not once, but twice! So I ordered furniture! I was going to do it in stages, so I replaced my stools.

Furniture from Amazon is like Ikea – you have to assemble everything; but the new stools were pretty easy. Then I changed my mind and pulled the plug. Metro Shelving unit for clothes. Coffee table. Bedside table. End table. Shelf unit. Ordered them all on the same day, and of course they were scheduled to arrive on different days! LoL. Delivery was actually pretty quick, and I think within 10 days I had everything. I believe I could now get a job at Ikea demonstrating how to assemble furniture!

Now I have furniture, and it still looked a little bare … so time to find houseplants! There are far too many places listed on google maps that aren’t there any more. Made a trip to the Sunday tianguis in Colonia Juárez for a few, and then found a place in Playa Sur that primarily sells succulents called Distrito Verde (https://www.facebook.com/distritoverde.mzt). I still need a few more plants, but for now I’m good!

The apartment, with furniture, is now telling me that the walls need attention. I’m going to seek out a place that will print photos on canvas and take care of that situation, but not right away 🙂 I think the next purchase will be a full length mirror for the bathroom door. Now THAT should inspire me to stay on my diet!

Speaking of diet – I finally stopped at Santas Ahogadas on Av. Ejercito Méxicano. Not as good, in my opinion, as El Mono – but pretty close. Will keep them on the list as a backup. Here’s a parting shot of the torta ahogada I had! Have a good holiday season people!

Sometimes I think everyone else knows the things I do, but if you haven’t heard Mazatlán’s mayor (Benitez, ‘The Chemist’) resigned and a replacement (Zatarain) was installed. This was after a financial issue with replacing and installing street lights. The company involved didn’t go through a bidding process, and from what everyone seems to think, charged an outrageous amount of money for them. This issue is still being resolved, but in the midst the mayor, who had approved the deal, resigned. The governor of Sinaloa has appointed him Secretary of Tourism though. Lawsuits and possible criminal charges are being considered so that may not last long either. Sadly it appears that Mazatlán’s financial reserve is totally gone and projects such as the repaving of Av. Emilio Barragán has been halted. You should walk down and take a look – it’s not pretty, and the people living and trying to make a living there are not doing well.

I always hesitate to post anything political because the Méxican Constitution, Article 33, states that non-citizens cannot be involved in political matters. Opinions I have, I just don’t give them voice. And I’m not pointing the finger at The Chemist – others have, but I will wait for a court procedure to make a determination.

Moving on.

I have an interior apartment in a small building. We have a common door at the street. Open the door and climb the stairs and you’re at the ‘first’ floor. There’s a small open area and another set of stairs that leads to the ‘second’ floor where my apartment is. 35 steps in total 🙂 And one more at my doorstep! I have a nice balcony to look over into the area below – not that there’s reason for me to do it, but I can 🙂 The balcony is several inches of brick and cement – wide enough to put planters on. Which I had. Then one of my neighbors was concerned that the planters would fall on her head as she walked under them. Only three scenarios would cause that – 1. Earthquake; 2. Big giant bird; 3. My elbow. The first two are unlikely, but I’m a clutz at times and #3 could conceivably occur. So I purchased two sets of planters that attach VERY securely (https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B08QZC4KPR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Before I left on my last trip I purchased a water faucet timer and a watering kit – but couldn’t get it working so I gave all my plants (not many) to a neighbor.

Now that I’m back, I bought a new more expensive timer, and several replacement plants. Plants were very reasonably priced (40 to 80 pesos each at the Sunday Juárez tianguis). Hopefully I can get the system up and running as I still have trips I want to take!

So that was the long story to get to the reason for my post. With an interior apartment, delivery people don’t have a way to deliver to me easily. I always put a note in the delivery comments to call me when they arrive, but that doesn’t always happen. And then I have to plan on being home all day on the scheduled delivery date as they never give you a time. I’ve used my property manager’s address to have things delivered – but that puts her out. And then I discovered that Amazon.mx will deliver to DHL offices! There’s a DHL office by the Jumapam office, which is not far from my apartment. Problem solved!

While I try to buy local, sometimes you just have to get something from Amazon or Mercado Libre. Knowing that there’s a simple and easy way to have it delivered just makes life a little easier. Plus, Jumapam’s payment website has been offline for months – I can stop there on the way to DHL and pay my bill!

Two major earthquakes centered around Manzanillo now. Three dead – tragic, but nothing like the 1995 quake that killed 10,000. I read that approximately 200 buildings between Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta had sustained damage. Crazy!

And on a local note, the mayor has done it again. I hesitate to say anything, but this has nothing to do with politics, but rather just plain bad ideas.

I’d heard about this project, but had put it in the ‘believe it when I see it’ bin. I now a believer! Paseo del Centenario has a wonderful little plaza that when viewed from certain angles appears to be in the shape of a heart. I’ve seen people getting their wedding photos shot there, and it’s a stop on many of the pulmonia city tours.

The mayor, for some bizarre reason, decided it was being used as a toilet (I walk past it frequently and have never seen that) and needed some tables and chairs! Oh, and yes – nothing is complete without a glass lookout bridge! The tables and chairs – made of cement, are there now. Don’t see any work yet on installing the bridge, but I’m not saying it won’t happen. If it does though, will people be required to take off their shoes – or is it just going to get scratched up? Will there be someone there 24/7 to make sure shoes are off? Will they be charging a fee to go on it like at the lighthouse? Will it be maintained, or will it fall into the ocean in 3 years? Enquiring minds want to know! And the mayor just called everyone who doesn’t like the change, ‘ignorant’.

So for now a beautiful spot is no more. Let’s hope a future administration will restore it – along with the mermaid’s arm, and the missing cupid (both at the rodolfo sanchez taboada).

Three weeks and counting until I start my way back home! I’m more than ready!

Five weeks until I head back home to Mazatlán!

I’ll be leaving Seattle for Puerto Vallarta. I have a timeshare there and usually book a week in October or November. It’s late enough in the season that the weather is usually cooling down, and early enough that the tourists haven’t made it down yet. Nice to have the quiet, but that also means that the headliners in the clubs aren’t there yet either.

A week didn’t seem long enough to decompress and get back into the México gear, so I booked a week in Acapulco too. I enjoy Acapulco – it has both of the things I like; beach and big city. But then I got to thinking … it’s a 24 hour bus ride back to Mazatlán from Acapulco. Not even a luxury bus is luxurious if you’re riding for 24 hours!

So I went on AirBnB and booked a week in a shared apartment in México City. Private room, shared bath, $150 for a week. Just a few blocks from Chapultapec Park! And it breaks up my bus ride into two do-able segments that only stretch the boundaries of ‘luxury’.

This year I’m going to see about visiting the fort of San Diego in Acapulco. It was one of those things I thought I’d be able to see any time, so the first year I put it off. Then Covid hit, and INAH shut down a lot of sites – the fort being one of them. Two years it’s been closed when I visit, so perhaps I’ll be able to cross it off the list this time!

It’s been the same situation with Tula de Allende. There’s a bus from Autobuses del Norte in México City that will take me there, just like the bus I take to Teotihuacan. But the site has been closed for my last two (three?) visits. I’m really looking forward to this one and am going to do a day trip while I’m down if the site is open. Of course, I’ll do another day trip to Teotihuacan as well. Can’t go to México City and pass up a trip to pyramids!

Five weeks until I head back home to Mazatlán. Eight before I actually get there! I’m so ready to be home, but the trip will be fun!

The Méxican tienda close to me here in Seattle, Plaza Latina Shoreline, told me that they have carnitas for sale on Sundays. After a late start to my day (that bed was just too comfortable) I hiked up there to get a pound so I can make my favorite tortas ahogadas de carnitas. HUGE line at the deli counter so I popped over to the meat department and got a half pound of chicharrón to start. The meat guy said that yes, the carnitas were at the deli. The line now was twice as long so I zipped over to the end pronto!

I didn’t know what they were selling – it wasn’t carnitas, but EVERYONE was getting it and they were getting quart sized styrofoam cups of it. Mostly 6 to 12 of them at a time! When I got to the deli counter I saw what it was …. BIRRIA!!! Ok, no one’s birria is as good as Taqueria El Sabor, not even in México. But I had to try theirs. I asked for a container of it and then the magic question came. I was stunned!

“¿Birria? ¿Quieres birria de res o chivo?

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!! They had GOAT birria!!!!!! I can’t find it anywhere in Mazatlán! So I left the tienda with birria de chivo, carnitas, and chicharrón – and they kept $20 of my money. I think it was a fair trade!

I tasted the birria before I put it in the fridge – very tasty. Not gamey at all – a little would have been nice, but I’m good with it. And it’s not as good as the Taqueria down the street. But it’s definitely good. And I’ll be doing a happy dance when I eat it! As I will when I make the tortas! And when I make tacos de chicharrón! The happy dance will likely stop when I weigh myself and see that I’ve gained muchas libras!

There’s a price for happiness, and this time it’s a notch on my belt.

Once again I find myself in Seattle. I need to winterize my house there every year and frankly I didn’t want to be in Seattle in November and December again. Cold, wet, grey, snow. No. With the ‘fake news’ global warming, Seattle’s usual 6 weeks of summer seems to have extended to 8 or 10! It’s actually near 90 f. – without humidity! I’ll admit that I’m enjoying myself!

So I’m getting yard work done, slowly – but doing it. I am checking things that need checked, and will wrap pipes and shut off hot water tanks before I leave. I also got my second booster for Covid-19, as well as the second shingles vaccination.

This time the vaccinations didn’t go as smoothly, probably because I doubled up on them. Both arms hurt – which happened with the others, so I expected it. What I didn’t expect was the day of not being able to think, the itching, and today there’s a slight rash around the shingles vaccination point. Nothing concerning, but it is annoying. At least the brain fog is gone!

I have also found that the Méxian tienda near the house here has a pretty good selection of things, including real chicharrón! One of the ‘upscale’ grocery stores now has chamorro (pork shank) in the freezer section! I’m all set! Lol. And the birria at my favorite Méxican fast food place is still better than I’ve found anywhere in México … I don’t know what it is, but theirs is crazy good. I think I’ll apply for a job and stay long enough to learn how to cook it!

Mid October I will be in Puerto Vallarta for a week, then off to Acapulco. I have a week booked, but am considering staying another week or two. I’ll have to see how I feel. One of the Youtube vloggers from Acapulco has been doing a series on the economical hotels in Acapulco – which are right up my alley! The last one was a place just a couple of blocks from a beach I like, so I’m thinking $20 USD a night for a week or two might be do-able! And, score!, they have hot water for showers! Lol. I’m not sure about how I’m getting back to Mazatlán … the bus is 24 hours from Acapulco, and even on a ‘luxury’ bus it gets really uncomfortable around hour 12. I see I can fly AeroMexico for $136. I might just have to do that! Maybe two weeks in Acapulco and one in México City? Hmmm. Now I’ll have to check Airbnb!

Groceries are about to be delivered so it’s time to wrap this one up. If you haven’t looked at my other project lately, please give it a go …. https://www.mazatlanweekly.com. I’m still updating it daily – and I brought my laptop with me so I can do it while vacationing!

I’m going to admit that Polleria Catalina is my favorite chicken vendor in Mazatlán. I don’t know why, but occasionally whatever I buy is $100 pesos. Total. The first time it happened I had several items, including at least a kilo of chicken breasts. Today it was a kilo of legs/thighs, and a whole chicken. The price isn’t *always* $100 pesos, but it’s a nice relief to my budget when it is!

Additionally, Polleria Catalina gives you a tamarind & chili lollipop with every order! AND it’s in the shape of a chicken!! I will admit that I feel like I’m cheating on my chicken guys in the mercado pino suarez – but THEY don’t give me a lollipop (and they’re never just $100 pesos)! Polleria Catalina has a facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/Polleria-Catalina-1583941151883035/.

Polleria Catalina is in the mercado hidalgo in the Juárez colonia. My suggestion is that you make a visit to the tianguis in Juárez some Sunday, then hop over to the mercado to buy your chicken before going home. Remember – DO NOT just hop on any bus marked Juárez! Some don’t go to the mercado! Either ask the bus driver if they go to the mercado Hidalgo, or take a pulmonia/cab. I don’t suggest that anyone drives there if they have a car – the Sunday tianguis makes the streets crazy!

Polleria Catalina is one of the larger vendors in the mercado – they’re hard to miss. And while you’re there, try to find the spice vendor – Productos Oaxaqueños. They have almost everything, and might order it if they don’t! If you like chili’s, ask them if they have chili pasilla mixe. These are very much like a dried smoky chipotle, but just different enough to make things interesting. They’re great to give your salsas a little smoky kick! Productos Oaxaqueños is more difficult to find in the mercado – they’re down a narrow aisle, but well worth a search. Their facebook page is here: https://www.facebook.com/Productos-oaxaque%C3%B1os-100453638281569/. They have another location, so don’t be concerned if you don’t see Mercado Hidalgo on their page!

If you make a visit to the Sunday tianguis and/or Mercado Hidalgo in Juárez – please be sure to bring a bottle of water with you! Summer temperatures are crazy hot and heat exhaustion can sneak up on you very easily. Be safe, but have fun!